Zagreb

The Undiscovered Capital City

Orson Welles loved this place and film directors are now discovering it, yet Zagreb remains (for now) possibly the most underrated capital city in Europe and many writers and guide book authors agree with us.

With a population of around one million (including the suburbs), what hits the first time visitor is that many of Zagreb’s residents while away time over coffee and conversation. There’s a vibrant café society here in a very central European sort of way.

For a small capital city, Zagreb is green with more parks and gardens than you might imagine, including the lovely Botanical Garden just five minutes walk from the centre.

The pretty Upper Town is reached on foot via Radiceva to the stone gate or by a little funicular train which takes about two minutes. This is an area of cobbled streets, courtyard restaurants and bars, art galleries and the Sabor, the Croatian Parliament. Fans of Croatia’s most famous sculptor Ivan Mestrovic should head for his atelier, a delightful, intimate museum in his former home just north of Markov trg.

The Lower Town is home to shops and some fantastic museums including the Mimara and the Museum of Contemporary Art. Whilst cemeteries are not usually at the top of a tourist guide, the Miragoj cemetery is the stunning 1876 creation of Austrian architect Hermann Bollé who lived and died in Zagreb. Laid out almost like a fortress with climbing plants and ivy covering stone, green domes and cloisters, it is hauntingly beautiful and serves all citizens regardless of their religion.

The famous Dolac market is a must see where produce from every corner of Croatia is available, much of it organic. The city’s top chefs talk lovingly about the place.

Zagreb has a superb evening entertainment offering with cultural events, concerts and music festivals year round. The clubbing scene is one of the best in central Europe with many eclectic venues across the city and the choice of restaurants is vast.

Five star hotels are always expensive in capital cities so we’ve chosen two four star Croatian gems, the Palace Hotel and the Astoria which we love, both in central locations and offering real value for money. The tram system is cheap and efficient and most routes lead to the main square, Trg bana Jelacica, at the centre of the city.

Zagreb has been described as a “pocket sized Vienna” and a “fairytale capital” and we believe it’s perfect for a weekend away or a capital and coast combination including a few days on the Adriatic sea at Opatija just an easy two hour drive away by bus or hire car. If you are short of time, then this combination really is a wonderful short break holiday option.  

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