Kvarner
One of Croatia’s best kept secrets
This region tucked into the Gulf to the east of Istria and reaching down to the tip of the Dalmatia region is no secret to Croatians and visitors from neighbouring countries. Residents in the capital Zagreb, flock down to the Kvarner coast for a day or a weekend to rest body and soul. Some of Europe’s Royal and aristocratic families along with Mahler and Chekhov also came here in the 19th century to take in the sea air and rekindle their creative spirits.
Kvarner is an inspirational mix of the serene and stylish in resorts such as Opatija and Lovran with the wilder, more rugged, yet utterly beautiful islands of Cres, Krk and Rab and we are delighted to feature two of them. Opatija is often referred to as the “Nice of the Adriatic” while Lovran is a foodie’s delight with festivals of wild asparagus (April), cherries (June) and chestnuts (October). If you’ve seen the Spanish making a giant paella, wait until you have seen these people making their 10,000 egg asparagus frittata on the square in Lovran.
The almost unpronounceable Moscenicka Draga (say “mosh-chen-itch-ker-dragga”) has a fabulously long white pebble beach and glorious fish restaurants. Luxuriant nature parks, hidden coves, tiny villages and ancient traditions are all here.
And then there is the utterly beautiful and unspoilt island of Rab with more sandy beaches than anywhere in Croatia, an island visited by Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson in 1936 yet which, curiously, remains almost unknown to the British.
And as for dreams and romance … Michael Fendre is a young Austrian conductor who dreamed of bringing back the glory days of concerts and balls started by his ancestors when this region was part of the Austro Hungarian Empire. His dream came true last year when the first Festival Kvarner was launched with a series of well received classical concerts. We are delighted to again support Festival Kvarner 2012 organised by Michael, Croatian partners and friends. In 2012 there are 19 concerts in June and September. Every guest of Love Croatia staying in Opatija, Lovran and Moscenicka Draga on concert dates will receive complimentary tickets.
ISLAND OF RAB
We are simply amazed That Brits have not yet discovered this beautiful little island. Arriving via the ten minute ferry crossing from the mainland, you might think you have arrived on the moon due to the rocky, barren terrain. Just a few minutes drive later, all is lush, green and sparkling coves. The island has 22 sandy beaches and bays, including Paradise Beach, almost 2 kms of sand on the Lopar peninsula and Pudarica beach, home to Santos Beach Club and top international DJ’s for the clubbing set.
Rab Town is a beautifully preserved medieval walled town of alleyways, galleries, mansions and restaurants where juniper and palms sprout from every corner and four spires brush the skyline (there are 27 churches and 17 bell towers in the town).
The Rabska Fjera is a three day festival (25-27 July) recalling a 14th century tradition and scenes from the Middle Ages with games, crafts, local produce and medieval workshops of weavers, shepherds and more. This is a massive, colourful event with parades, parties, heraldry and fireworks with many of the islands 10,000 inhabitants taking part and a whole year of preparation.
Suha Punta is a quiet spot 5 kms from Rab Town and the place for a truly lazy escape but close enough to the action if you want to join in. Small rocky and pebble beaches with sparkling blue sea and an away from it all feel. Weddings and blessings on Rab are new for 2012 with ceremonies in chapels, on sand or pebble beaches and among Roman ruins with travel by decorated water taxis (great for photos!).
OPATIJA
is the longest established resort in the Kvarner region. (Say it “oh-patt-eeya”). A place of grand Austro Hungarian villas and hotels, manicured gardens, mimosa and magnolia trees. Its stylish, sophisticated yet fun too with some good designer shopping and there are some cool bars, nightclubs and casinos.
Lungo Mare is a waterfront promenade, 12 kms long, which goes as far as Lovran to the west and to Volosko to the east – you can always walk one way and get the bus or water taxi back. Beaches are usually of the smoothed rock or concrete variety and the spa tradition is strong here.
Most hotels have impressive spas and, in addition, Opatija’s own Thalassotherapy Centre is huge with an Olympic size indoor seawater pool, a wide range of seawater treatments and full medical and beauty programmes. Day passes are available.
Opatija is home to the new Festival Kvarner and there are also frequent concerts in the outdoor theatre from May to October plus dance events, usually detailed on posters locally.
LOVRAN
is named after the laurel tree, the tree of transformation. Guests who return again and again speak of a feeling of revival and wellbeing. This beautiful little old town of cobbled streets is home to galleries, churches and restaurants. There are some excellent beaches, the coastal walk on the Lungo Mare promenade to Opatija takes just over an hour (at a steady pace) and being at the foot of Mount Ucka, there are well marked hiking paths. Enjoy the asparagus festival in April, Cherry Days in July and the famous Marunada (chestnut) festival in October.
MOSCENICKA DRAGA
is just south of Lovran with local bus services to Lovran and on to Opatija. This is a quiet, traffic free resort beyond the hotels and is still a fishing village at heart. It has one of the best beaches in the area, a 2 km long arc of white pebbles fringed with gardens, patisseries and ice-cream parlours. On the grassy banks at one end there are a couple of good bistro bars and the little village is a gently winding slope of traditional stone houses and some of the best fish restaurants on this part of the coast, plus a few shops including a supermarket. Good watersport facilities in summer.
ISLAND OF CRES
An untouched, wildly evocative island with just two hotels, some beautiful bays, the Tramuntana forest and the chance to get close to nature with an unforgettable volunteer holiday experience at the Eco Centre in the tiny village of Beli.
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